Table of Contents
LAS VEGAS — As Cosmoprof North America celebrated its 20th anniversary, the B2B beauty trade show offered a glimpse into the future.
The forecast for beauty is bright as evidenced by the 20% gain in attendance of retailers, distributors, investors and media representing more than 1,100 exhibiting brands. Retailers in attendance included Walmart, Nordstrom, Costco, Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Target, The Detox Market, Belk, Thirteen Lune, CVS and Sally Beauty. Brands included Estée Lauder, Unilever, e.l.f., Revlon, Too Faced, Revlon, OKAY and L’Oréal. Thirty-six percent of attendees were buyers/distributors, according to Liza Rapay, head of marketing for Cosmoprof North America.
Beautystreams revealed its annual Cosmo Trends, the categories and products that will drive sales. This year’s prognostications were Nip-Tuck Relief, innovations to soothe post-treatment skin; Skin Shrink, formulations that play on the mind-body connection; Function Up, everyday personal care essentials get an upgrade; Fruitopia, fruit-infused products that sound edible; and High-Sci, advanced formulations that take center stage.
The sprawling show floor at the Las Vegas Convention Center (the home for the show for the past two years) showcased items that fit into the predictions, including Biotic Beauty, a range of brightening probiotic deodorants; ART.kg, a therapeutic shampoo treatment with topical probiotics; and Mielle’s Avocado & Tamanu leave-in conditioner.
Other buzzy booths on display included OKAY Pure Naturals, where cofounder Osman Mithavayani and Chris Lopez, marketing director, discussed the current shopper mindset. “People are shopping with a less-is-more mentality. There is demand for simplified formulas that deliver more powerful results,” said Lopez. Shoppers also want natural and pure products at affordable prices, which the OKAY lineup provides. The company has a pipeline of innovation including hair growth serums, fragrance-free skin and hair products, and the expansion of its men’s line.
Voesh caught the attention of several retailers for its pedicure in a box and Soulmate Heel Repair Balm. The brand has a big following in the professional market and has an eye on further retail expansion.
Rude, a makeup line, highlighted several licenses, including a collection with Chupa Chups and ZYZ. Rude is currently available on Amazon and its own site.
One of the award-winning brands at the show (voted best Makeup and Nail Product) was Mani Maker Nail Polish Grip, an ergonomic grip for nail polish that helps with application. The tool was the brainchild of Amanda (17) and Amanda Lavian (14) who created it out of the need to ease the self-application of polish. The cap, which fits any polish, can be used by manicurists.
There was a lot of action in the nail category — a move prompted by a slowdown in the growth of nail following the pandemic. Sales sizzled with consumers who couldn’t get to salons but then slowed as they could return. The expansion of artificial nails also cut into nail color sales. To spark sales, Ella + Mila, a 17-free (of chemicals) and vegan collection, showed off Jelly Colors.
Consumers continue to buy devices to tackle beauty at home. Spa Sciences presented several of its affordable options, including a permanent hair removal system and food smoothing systems.
At-home pampering was also a big draw on the exhibit floor for Daily Concepts, which showed off new products developed for men called Mister After Spa and new flavors for its viral hit, T. TAiO Esponjabon soap.
Educational sessions were standing room only at Cosmoprof. Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer of WSL Strategic Retail, moderated a lively session called Disrupted Beauty along with three of the most innovative retailers in the industry — CVS’ vice president of merchandising for beauty and personal care Andrea Harrison; Noah Rosenblatt, president of North America for SpaceNK; and Nyakio Grieco, cofounder of Thirteen Lune.
Discussion concerning how the definition of health and wellness changed over the past three years, especially regarding skin care, was a hot topic. “There was so much growth in skin care, especially during the pandemic,” said CVS’ Harrison. “There are even 12-year-olds with skin care regimens on TikTok.” That’s one reason, she explained, CVS went deeper into the category with its Skin Care Centers, which are staffed with experts and technology to help people understand the dizzying array of products.
Accessibility to skin care is one of the benefits SpaceNK delivers with its shops in Walmart, according to Rosenblatt. “Luxury is becoming more prestige, and prestige is becoming more luxury. And so, it’s really moving fast all the time,” he added, noting that SpaceNK has multichannel distribution to cover all bases.
The panel also delved into the delicate balance of legendary brands and emerging lines and the importance of both. Harrison noted that many of the iconic brands have stepped up and are hitting upon trends at a faster pace. “We have to have an assortment for 12-year-olds up to 80-year-olds, and everybody in between,” noted Harrison.
Rosenblatt explained that there are fashion brands and traffic brands — retailers need to drive both discovery and volume.
The impact of TikTok and Instagram on the beauty industry was undeniable. A roundtable of three influencers — Ian Michael Crumm, Jasmine Nguyen and Monica Ravichdran — hosted by Andrea Nagel, senior vice president new and programming at CEW pulled back the curtain on what it takes to create content. These are not the influencers of just five years ago. They are marketers who also tap into their metrics to consult with the brands they support.
“The most successful brand partnerships are the ones where it is organic and products I genuinely support,” said Ravichdran, who has found a niche with a brown girl audience. Larissa Jensen, vice president of beauty at Circana, presented the full picture of mass and prestige beauty. While all beauty is expanding, growth remains stronger in the premium channel. “The mass market is about convenience,” Jensen said. “For prestige, it is the experience. If you are going to treat yourself, you are going to go to a higher-end product at Sephora, Ulta or Macy’s.” Overall beauty sales, she said, rose 10% in the first half of 2023 versus 2022.
Cosmoprof North America returns to the Mandalay Bay Convention Center, July 23 to July 25, 2024. Cosmoprof North America Miami, the B2B gateway to the Latin American beauty market, debuts in Miami January 23 to January 25.
